Showing posts with label in. Show all posts
Showing posts with label in. Show all posts
Friday, May 24, 2013
Motor Show in St Petersburg That asking for 200 rubles
April 2 in St. Petersburg opened the so-called "spring" auto show, entitled "World of Cars 2008". Recall - Peter is a truly unique city. Here, the "international" road show held more than once in two years in Paris or Frankfurt. And not even every year, as in the same Geneva. Motorists already visited St. Petersburg salons twice a year! Spring and autumn. Moreover, the organizers of both insist that they make "most important automotive event. This year, the entrance to the spring auto show in St. Petersburg was worth as much 200 rubles. Let's see what the organizers have prepared for the money. But nothing in the grand "world car", we have not seen. As usual, the exhibition which takes place in the building of a concert set, does not infect visitors a huge area. The entire cabin can be, in effect, bypass for 30 minutes, and it is taking into account the stops at some benches and staring at beautiful girls (the last feast for the eyes, though fans of "strawberries" may disappoint - the naked body, this time a bit). Naturally, there are no world premieres in St. Petersburg was not. And Russian too. Although not. Citroen was first shown by Russian buyers own SUV C-Crosser and the new C5 sedan. Moreover, the call and the price. So, Citroen C5 will cost in Russia of 689,000 rubles ($ 29,100), and we begin to deliver not only from sedans, and wagons. Moreover, the French finally decided to sell diesels in Russia! Buyers can choose between a total of six power units. Gasoline volume 1.8 (127hp), 2.0 (143 hp) and 3.0 (215 hp) and three diesel engines: 2.0 (138 hp), 2.2 (173) and 2.7 (210 hp. sec.). With regard to C-Crosser, then this model is built on a Mitsubishi Outlander XL, yet will have only a 2.4-liter petrol unit, but will be available soon, and 2,2-liter diesel engine. Cost C-Crosser will be from 963,500 rubles. (Or $ 40,700) to 1,142,500 rubles. And it turns out that the cheaper C-Crosser does not name - for comparison, Mitsubishi Outlander XL with the same 2.4-liter engine costs from 903,696 rubles. ($ 38,200). We arrived in St. Petersburg and the Chinese, without which it now does not pass a car showroom in Russia, even the smallest. Moreover, Chinese companies Chery and Great Wall have shown not some "promising" development, they often bring in various exhibitions, and have serial samples. Distinguished Chery. This company is pleased with St. Petersburg just three new models: a small hatchback Kimo, a large minivan B14 and a tiny sedan QQ6 (formally, this is a hatchback, but the machine looks like a sedan). The last car of interest largely because it is based on ... Daewoo Matiz. Externally QQ6 looks surprisingly good, and interior design is also on the level. True, the build quality and finishing materials are not good. Yes, and considerable price. A vehicle with a 1.1-liter engine (65 hp), with music, two airbags, ABS, steering, air conditioning and alloy wheels worth 263,500 rubles. or slightly more than $ 11,000. For comparison, the most expensive Matiz with 1.0-liter engine sell for 261,100 rubles. (A Matiz for a modest request and did 190,000 rubles)..
Thursday, May 16, 2013
How to Change an Alternator in an 2001 Audi A4
1. Open the engine compartment and disconnect the negative battery cable using a wrench to loosen the terminal nut. On some automobiles, you may have to remove the cooling duct to get to the alternator. If you model is one of these, then you can remove the air ducts using a screwdriver to remove the clamps.
2. Unplug the alternator wiring harness and then remove the other wires using a wrench to remove the nuts. Loosen the mounting bolts on the alternator with a ratchet and socket. Push the alternator to the side and remove the serpentine belt from the alternator only.
3. Remove the alternator mounting bolts using a socket and ratchet and pull the alternator out of the vehicle.
4. Put the new alternator in place and loosely install the mounting bolts. Place the serpentine belt back on the alternator pulley and tighten the alternator mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Plug the alternator wiring harness in and then connect the other electrical wires. Use a wrench to tighten the nuts.
5. If you had to remove the air ducts to access the alternator, replace them and tighten the clamps with the screwdriver. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and tighten the nut with a wrench.
Sunday, May 12, 2013
My Key Will Not Turn in an E320
1. Wiggle the steering wheel while turning the key. If there is pressure on the steering wheel that holds it on the lock pin, the key will not turn. A locked steering wheel is not the source of the problem if the steering wheel turns but the key still does not turn.
2. Start the car with a spare key. If the spare key works but the main key does not, you obviously have a bad main key. A replacement key for the E320 costs around $200 as of January 2011. You will need a valid registration and title to complete the purchase.
3. Place the key in the ignition and listen for a clicking noise. If both the spare key and the main key fail to turn, and you hear a clicking noise when you insert the key into the ignition, you most likely have a bad ignition switch. Visit a Mercedes-Benz dealership or a repair shop to confirm this diagnosis. A new ignition switch for the E320 will run you about $1,000 as of January 2011.
Thursday, May 9, 2013
How to Drain a Radiator in an Audi
1. Park the vehicle on a flat surface.
2. If the engine has been running, allow it too cool completely.
3. Remove the radiator cap. On older vehicles it will beon the top of the radiator. On newer vehicles it will be on the coolant expansion tank.
4. Locate the petcock valve on the lower corner of the radiator.
5. Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the petcock valve.
6. Open the petcock valve by turning it counterclockwise.
7. Allow the radiator to drain completely.
8. Turn the petcock valve clockwise to close it.
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Next post Tesla’s Roadster To Exit In 2011Model S
If you want a Tesla Roadster, you better sign up now. Tesla Motors plans to stop building the car in 2011.
Buried deep inside the Securities and Exchange Commission paperwork Tesla filed ahead of its IPO is the announcement that production of the two-seater and its souped up Roadster Sport sibling (pictured) will stop next year, and a replacement won’t hit the road until 2013 at the earliest.
Why? Because it doesn’t have anyone to build it.
“We do not plan to sell our current generation Tesla Roadster after 2011 due to planned tooling changes at a supplier for the Tesla Roadster,” the company wrote in the filing.” The Roadster is built by Lotus, so presumably Tesla is talking about changes at the British automaker’s factory in Hethel, England, but we can’t confirm that because Tesla spokesman Ricardo Reyes declined to comment.
Tesla plans to replace the Roadster, but not “until at least one year after the launch of the which is Model S,not expected to be in production until 2012.” The company just closed a $465 million loan with the Department of Energy to finance construction of the Model S sedan, and it is focusing most of its time and resources on that car.
Stopping production of the Roadster could could present a problem, because it means Tesla won’t have any cars to sell — and no revenue coming in.
“As a result, we anticipate that we may generate limited, if any, revenue from selling electric vehicles after 2011 until the launch of the planned model S,” the company says in the SEC filing. That may not be a problem if S production starts on plan and goes off without a hitch, but if Tesla hits any snags, things could get ugly fast — a point it concedes in the filing.
“The launch of the Model S could be delayed for a number of reasons and any such delays may be significant and would extend the period in which we would generate limited, if any, revenues from sales of our electric vehicles.”
The move amounts to killing the car that made Tesla famous for the sake of the Model S. Tesla better hope everything goes according to plan, or it surely will regret that decision.
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
How to Install Rear Wheel Bearings in a Mercedes
1. Park your car on a flat, level surface. Jack your car up and put it securely on jack stands.
2. Remove the wheel and the hub by placing a screwdriver on the edge of the hub. Use a hammer and hit the hub out toward you.
3. Use an Allen wrench to loosen the retaining nut.
4. Remove two bolts that are 21 mm in size. The bolts hold the caliper on the steering knuckle. To remove the bolts use an impact wrench or 18-inch spanner. Make sure you get the right bolts. There are two others that are the same size that hold on the steering mechanism. You want to remove the bolts that hold the caliper.
5. Compress the brake pads to remove the caliper. When removing the caliper, do not kink the brake line. Hang the brake line with a coat hanger or string. Do not let the caliper dangle on the brake line.
6. Remove the outer bearing.
7. Remove the grease seal with a screw driver and hammer. Pry it out and remove the inner seal. The grease seal is destroyed during removal, so remember to use a new seal after you have replaced the inner bearing.
8. Clean out all the grease.
9. Put a new inner bearing in and put a little more grease around the bearing.
10. Put a new grease seal in place and tap down evenly. You may have to hit it hard. Use a 2-by-4 to get even force.
11. Put the outer bearing in place.
12. Put the retaining nut on the hub, and tighten it until the wheel wont turn at all. Once the wheel does not turn, loosen the nut 1/3rd of a turn. Tighten the Allen bolt to secure the nut. Make sure the wheel turns freely, but does not have any play, meaning the wheel does not wobble.
13. Clean all grease out of the wheel hub.
14. On the hub, there is a place to fill with grease. Fill it with grease to the line, but be precise and do not overfill it.
15. Replace the hub and the wheel.
16. Torque the wheel nuts to 50 foot pounds.
Monday, May 6, 2013
How to Change the Headlamp in an E500 Mercedes
1. Engage the parking brake, and turn the ignition off.
2. Open the hood, and locate the electrical connector, found at the rear of the headlamp assembly. Press the tab to detach the connector.
3. Remove the dust cover from the rear of the headlamp assembly, by pulling it off. Grab the base of the headlamp socket, and turn it, counterclockwise, to remove it from the assembly.
4. Pull the old bulb from the socket to remove it. Insert the new bulb into the socket, and insert the socket into the rear of the assembly. Turn the socket clockwise, securing it.
5. Replace the dust cover, and reattach the electrical connector to the rear of the headlamp assembly. Close the hood, and test the new headlamp.
How to Check the Transmission Fluid Level in a 1998 Audi A6
1. Park the 1998 Audi A6 in a safe and level work environment. Set the emergency brake.
2. Jack up the front of the 1998 Audi A6 and put the jack stands under the designated front jacking points on both sides of the car. Then, lower the Audi onto the jack stands. Pull the jack out.
3. Move the jack to the rear of the Audi and jack it up in the air. Place the jack stands under the designated rear jacking points on both sides of the Audi. Then lower the car onto the jack stands. The whole car has to be on jack stands so that you will be able to get an accurate transmission fluid reading.
4. Crawl under the driver side of the Audi near the driver side door. Locate the transmission pan on the bottom of the transmission. Then, locate the transmission fluid fill plug on the very front of the transmission pan.
5. Slide the fluid catch pan under the transmission fluid fill plug on the front of the transmission pan. Then, remove the fill plug with the 1/2 inch drive ratchet and socket by turning the fill plug counter clockwise. Pull the fill plug out of the pan.
6. Crank the engine and let it run for about two minutes to heat up the transmission fluid. Keep the engine running while checking the transmission fluid level.
7. Stick you finger inside the fill hole and locate the fluid level. The transmission fluid should be either coming out of the fill hole when you remove the fill plug or the fluid level should be at or near the plug hole with the engine running.
8. Put the fill plug back into the pan and tighten down with the ratchet and socket. Remove the fluid catch pan from under the car. Turn the engine off and reverse the steps for jacking up the Audi to remove the jack stands.
Sunday, May 5, 2013
How to Shift Into 5th Gear in the Mercedes Benz Motorhome
1. Start the motor home engine and press on the brake.
2. Move the gear shift into the D position. When your gear shift is in D, the vehicle will move up and down from first to fifth gear, depending on the current speed and conditions. For the simplest driving experience, and one that gives you the option of being in fifth, simply leave your gear shift in D all the time.
3. Shift your gears up manually, if you so desire, by pressing the gear shift to the right toward the D+ symbol. Move your gears up or down by pressing the shifter toward D+ to shift up, or toward D- to shift down. The gear shown on the display after moving the lever is the highest gear the motor home is set to. If your display shows 4 for example, but now you want to shift to fifth, simply press the lever toward D+ until the D symbol displays. This allows the use of all possible gears, including fifth. That function still does not guarantee your motor home will shift up to fifth, since the transmission is still automatic, but it gives the motor home the option of shifting into fifth.
How to Change the Transmission Filter in Audi A4
1. Lift the vehicle with a floor jack and place a jack stand under the front and back axles behind each wheel. Verify that the vehicle is level when on the jack stands.
2. Locate the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan and place a drain pan on the ground under the plug. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench, allowing the transmission fluid to drain completely.
3. Remove the bolts on the transmission pan with a socket wrench and set the bolts in a safe place. Remove the transmission pan, using a screwdriver to carefully pry the pan off the transmission.
4. Clean out any debris and sediment from the inside of the transmission pan with clean paper towels. Unbolt the white plastic transmission filter from underneath the transmission with a socket wrench and dispose of the filter.
5. Remove any debris and oil from the bottom of the transmission where the filter attaches, with a clean cloth. Place the new filter gasket between the bottom of the transmission housing and the transmission filter and attach the new transmission filter to the bottom of the transmission.
6. Scrape the remaining gasket material off the bottom of the transmission and off the transmission pan with a putty knife. Place the new rubber transmission pan gasket around the lip of the transmission pan.
7. Attach the transmission pan to the bottom of the transmission and secure it with bolts. Screw the drain plug into the bottom of the transmission pan by hand until it is snug and tighten the drain plug with a socket wrench just enough so it is secure.
8. Unscrew the fill plug on the side of the transmission fluid oil pan with a socket wrench. Refill the transmission oil pan with transmission fluid, using a high output pump, until the fluid is running out of the pan.
9. Install the oil fill plug of the Audi automatic transmission pan and tighten by hand. Turn the engine on and place your foot on the brake pedal. Shift the transmission into each gear for about ten seconds to run the fluid through the transmission.
10. Put the transmission back into park and let the engine idle. Remove the oil fill plug on the side of the transmission pan by hand and fill the pan with fluid using the high output pump until the fluid runs out of the fill hole.
11. Place the drain plug into the side of the drain pan, securing it with the socket wrench. Shut off the vehicle engine.
12. Lift the vehicle up with a floor jack to remove all the jack stands and set the vehicle back down on the ground. Dispose of the drained transmission fluid at the local recyclers or automotive center.
Friday, May 3, 2013
How to Remove the Front Seat in a 1983 Mercedes 300D
1. Open the door of the car all the way to allow access to the seat. Slide the seat all the way to the front position. Locate the mounting brackets and adjuster slides under the seat.
2. Locate the two rear retaining bolts that run through the mounting brackets and into the floor. Remove both bolts with a socket and ratchet, setting the bolts aside in a safe place.
3. Slide the seat all the way to the rear position on the seat track. Locate the retaining bolts on the front of the seat, where the brackets meet the floor. Remove the two front bolts from the floor and brackets with a socket and ratchet, setting them aside for reuse later.
4. Lift the front of the seat, tilting it back so you can access the underside. Locate the electrical connector on the underside of the seat and depress the locking tab to release it. Separate the wiring harness on the seat from the harness on the car.
5. Lift the seat and remove it from the car through the door opening. Set it aside in a dry spot to avoid any damage while it is out of the car.
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